Is rock climbing trying to climb the best way to train?

Is climbing the best training method for climbing?

IsClimbingTheBestTrainingForClimbing?

There is a popular saying that "Climbing is the best climbing training." Many climbers do not do any training other than climbing. Let us examine whether it is positive if it is valid.

It'sanoldadagethat "climbingisthebesttrainingforclimbing,"andmanyclimbersleanonthislineasanexcusefornotengaginginanytrainingactivitiesoutsideofclimbingitself.Let'sexaminethispreceptanddetermine,onceandforall,ifitisvalid.

When I was asked "Climbing is the best climbing training?" I would say "see the situation." This is because the best training type for a particular climber is based on his or her current strengths and weaknesses and the current absolute climbing ability. For example, when it comes to improving climbing skills and psychological skills, strength training will not produce direct improvements in these areas. However, simply "climbing for training" to develop specific movement forces (such as training to increase grip strength, locking force, and upper body endurance) can only have a limited effect, or progress slowly year after year. Did these words seem to have been heard?

WhenIamaskedthequestion "Isclimbingthebesttrainingforclimbing", mycannedansweris - ". Itdepends" Thisisbecausethebesttypeoftrainingforagivenclimberdependsonhisorhercurrentstrengthsandweaknessesaswellascurrentabsoluteclimbingability.Forinstance, intermsofimprovingclimbingtechniqueandmentalskills, noamountofstrengthtrainingwillproducedirectimprovementsintheseareas.However, fordevelopingsport-specificstrength (ieconditioningtoimprovegripstrength, lock-offability, andenduranceofupperbodystrength), simply "climbingfortraining" willproducelimitedresultsandonlyslow (orno) improvementfromyeartoyear.Soundfamiliar?

One of the reasons that climbing is not the best strength training method is because the ultimate goal of “training” versus “climbing” is very different. For example, the purpose of climbing is to find ways to avoid muscle exhaustion and hopefully reach its peak before the muscles of the arms and forearms are exhausted. Conversely, training for rock climbing is usually the best practice to do the highest possible intensity in a matter of seconds or minutes to produce muscle exhaustion. In summary, in rock climbing, you are trying to avoid failure; in training, you tend to fail.

Onereasonthatclimbingisnotthebestmethodofstrengthtrainingisbecausetheultimategoalsof "training" versus "climbing" areverydifferent.Forinstance, thegoalinclimbingistoavoidmuscularfailureatallcostsand, hopefully, reachthetopofaboulderproblemorclimbbeforethearmandforearmmusclespumpout.Conversely, whentrainingforclimbingitisoftenbesttoexerciseatthehighestpossibleintensityandproducemuscularfailureinafewminutes, ifnotafewseconds.Summarizing - inclimbing, youstrivetoavoidfailure; intraining, youtendtopursuefailure.

Another example that can reveal the difference between climbing and training is how you hold the rock. In rock climbing, rock means a random use of some different gripping postures. Sometimes, you may even deliberately change the way you hold rocks. As a result, any single gripping gesture is unlikely to achieve maximum effectiveness, so a certain gripping gesture (eg, crisp, openhand, pinch, etc.) only adds power slowly. This will help you understand why an entire year climber may indeed need to increase your anaerobic endurance (such as strength stamina), but less to increase your absolute maximum grip strength. Therefore, changing different grip postures to maximize endurance is a good strategy for performance climbing, but it is a bad idea to train the maximum grip. Effective finger strength training requires you to determine a clear grip position as a goal, to do until exhausted.

Anotherexamplethatunderscoresthedifferencebetweenclimbingandtrainingforclimbingisthewayinwhichyougriptherock.Inclimbing, therockdictatesarandomuseofmanydifferentgrippositionsand, attimes, youmayevendeliberatelyvarythewayyougriptherock.Asaresult, it'sunlikelythatanysinglegrippositionwillevergetworkedmaximallyand, therefore, theindividualgrippositions (egcrimp, openhand, pinch, etc.) Areslowtoincreasestrength.Thisshouldhelpyouunderstandwhyafullseasonofclimbingmayindeedimproveyouranaerobicendurance (ieenduranceofstrength), butdolittletoincreaseyouabsolutemaximumgripstrength.Therefore, varyinggrippositionsisagreatstrategyformaximizingendurancewhenclimbingforperformance, butitstinksfortrainingmaximumgripstrength.Effectivefingerstrengthtrainingdemandsyoutargetaspecificgrippositionandworkituntilfailure (SeeHITWorkouts).

Finally, for some climbers, it may be best to perform natural physical training that is not a sport specific item. For example, an overweight person who does aerobic exercise on non-climbing training (and, of course, improves their dietary control) will be better than a sport-specific climbing exercise. Similarly, some "unstructured" individuals (for example, can't even do several pull-ups, push-ups, sit-ups, etc.) undergo a period of standard training cycle to improve overall physical condition would be better.

Asafinalnote, itmaybebestforsomeclimberstoengageinphysicalconditioningthatisnotsport-specificinnature.Forexample, anoverweightindividualwouldbebetteroffspendingtheirnon-climbingtrainingtimeperformingaerobicexercise (and, ofcourse, improvetheirdietarysurveillance) ratherthansport-specificclimbingexercises.Likewise, some "wayout-of-shape" individual (ieunabletodoevenafewpull-ups, push-ups, abdominalcrunches, etc.) Wouldbebetteroffengaginginaperiodofstandardcircuittrainingtoimprovegeneralconditioning.

In the final analysis, if you are concerned about the performance of climbing, you must not satisfy the simple "climbing is training". You can't follow the old creeds without thinking or be as defective as most other climbers. Way to train. To be the best (and strongest) climber may require you to become a knowledgeable self-trainer and fully thinking rock climbing trainer.

Inthefinalanalysis,ifyouareseriousaboutclimbingperformanceyoumustnotbesatisfiedsimply“climbingfortraining”,norcanyoumindlessadheretooldadagesortrainintheflawedwaysasmostotherclimbersdo.Becomingthebest(andstrongest)climberpossibledemandsthatyoubecomeaknowledgeableself-coachandthoughtfulpractitionerof“trainingforclimbing.”

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