REVIEW: Liu Xingli, a veteran watchmaker, was the executive editor of Fashion Times magazine and is currently editor of the AIRTIME Lifestyle Weekly. Visited the watch manufactures (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguer and Earl) of the two Swiss watch shows and Geneva genres. With a "hand book", "top watches" watches and other professional books.
On June 27, experienced media expert and watch expert Liu Xingli came to WanWangNet.com to participate in the signing and signing ceremony of WangWenHui.com about his new book Top Watches. Subsequently, Ms. Liu fans for the table to answer various doubts about the knowledge of watches and clocks, lively atmosphere, climax after another. The two compilers of Wan Watch World also made an interview with Teacher Liu, and we share with you the following questions on the interview.
Editor Fu Xueting: Liu, a few days ago I have seen "Geneva seven craft" this statement, I know the Geneva craft with enamel, micro-carving, Ji Lou, etc., I would like to ask you there are seven major watch industry Process this statement?
Liu Xingli: Geneva has a lot of craftsmanship, if more than seven finger on the dial on the craft. Enamel, micro-carving, Gui Lou, of course, also belong to the Geneva craft, in addition to such as diamonds, wood mosaic, feather mosaic, and even Chinese embroidery are now used on the dial.
In fact, we need to understand a concept, watches with jewelry features, creative and trendy is the key. Geneva craft is mainly used in the top watchmaking, such as enamel is the oldest watchmaking process, it is actually colored glass after firing, very beautiful. Other more creative, such as the recent emergence of feather mosaic, you need a very high level of technology. Earlier we mentioned that luxury watch is a luxury category, then it has the luxury features: beautiful, scarce, durable, like a feather inlaid enamel process lasting.
Editor Fu Xueting: I have seen the word micro-mosaic, the process?
Liu Xingli: ah, this process is there. Popular point that is the color of small stones stitched together, this is the mosaic of the initial shape.
Fu Xueting editor: Hermes out this year, a thousand flower dial watch, I think very beautiful, is done with the crystal craft.
Liu Xingli: Thousand flowers dial watch is right? Well, that is a new Hermes out this year, it uses the technology is very complex, the dial is a small flower, it is indeed beautiful.
Fu Xueting editor: Liu, I personally prefer Germany table, especially NOMOS design style. However, the current situation seems not very good German table, Lange have been attributed to the calendar peak group. Moreover, the Swiss watch in the Chinese market occupy a larger share, I would like to ask you to help analyze the next German watch the future trend in our country.
Liu Xingli: At present the watch industry has formed a flourishing competition situation, excluding the early clock and pocket watch, no matter how the changes, the premise of the watch is still jewelry. Watch pay attention to its design, style, quality and so on. Swiss watches are generally luxurious and elegant, as they emphasize the elegance of a watch for a century. Watch is not a craft product, is a symbol of traditional symbols and arts, so the traditional elegance is the main line of Swiss watchmaking.
But the German table is different, it is not the same in the design style. German table pay attention to function form, this is also a historical source. Early aristocratic rules more emphasis on etiquette, dress is also more complicated. With the advancement of industrialization, the pace of people's life is accelerating and the dress-up begins to become simple. Watch is one of the decoration, design changes along with it is normal. In fact, we can see here that the role of industrialization on people, people began to get rid of the traditional bondage, the pursuit of simple life.
When asked about Liu, why do you like German watches?
Fu Xueting editor: I think it is simple to design, unlike the Swiss table so exaggerated, I really like its Bauhaus style.
Liu Xingli: I thought you would say that you like the quality of German watches, look, you like the German watch is like it's style, but you must not like the German watch from the very beginning? This also shows that the watch is a There are cultural connotations of things, NOMOS it was established not long, it does not belong to the traditional tabulation range. And it is a bit Bauhaus style, Bauhaus was originally a building style, pay attention to "less is more", and later applied to the watch design can also be accepted. However, in the low-end watch industry in China, the German table is no market at all, because it accounted for a large proportion of the design, and high-end it, the proportion of technology and larger. And watchmaking in Switzerland has the longest history and is well placed in marketing. German table of good quality, but marketing is not as good as a Swiss watch. However, the pursuit of wearing a watch is a wonderful experience, like what style varies from person to person.
Editor Fu Xueting: Recently smart watches speculation is very hot, rumors Apple will launch in October iwatch. Swatch Group, one of the watch industry leaders, has always been on the lookout, but a few days ago they also said they have enough technology to make smartwatches. I would like to ask you, do you think the smart watch for the traditional watch industry has no impact?
Liu Xingli: The current situation, there is no. However, in the long run, there must be an impact, but this process will be relatively long. Wearable devices for the most terrible watch is that it occupies the human wrist, if iwatch developed a watch that can only be worn on the left wrist, is likely to change the human habit of wearing. The lethality of smartwatches is strong, and we never reject high tech. Once people are accustomed to smart watches, mechanical watches, that is, the end of time. The impact of smart watches on traditional mechanical watches is gradual, in fact, we can see some of the traditional watch in this regard, coping strategies, many big watch brands now also use a lot of high-tech related technologies.
Fu Xueting editor: Do you think the technology is better than mechanical paranoid cross- strait this view right?
Liu Xingli: It is not such a statement. To say that technology paranoid, Seiko is an example. Because they overemphasize the accuracy of timepieces, forgetting its own "jewelery" qualities, and technology crossover doing the best to be the Swiss Hublot. Watch manufacturing vision or to relax.
Editor Leung Cheng-Min: Liu, I read some information about Switzerland's most famous place for the production of watches called the Jura Valley, but later also some netizens said that this is wrong, that is, they said the Jura and the valley are two different The place. We want to hear your professional statement is?
Liu Xingli: I would especially like to hold a hand with him if the later proverb is on the scene. The meaning he expressed was quite accurate. Switzerland is the most famous place in the world to produce watches. In fact, there are indeed two different places in the Jura Mountains and the Jura Valley. However, many translation editors nowadays easily confuse the two in the process of translating foreign books and translate them directly into The "Jura Valley", which is actually made a geographical concept of the error.
Editor Leung Cheng-Min: Liu, read your recent new work, "top watches," where you emphasize often see someone mirror the surface of the "sapphire crystal glass mirror," This is an inaccurate statement. Well, the exact statement should be how to say?
Liu Xingli: "sapphire crystal glass mirror," this statement is not precise place: made a semantic mistake. Why do you say that? The composition of sapphire with natural sapphire is the same, but this is a synthetic, their molecular structure is the same. If you say, do not consider how it comes from the case, it can be said to be sapphire, anyway, its hardness is quite high. This is why watchmakers like to use it as a mirror because it is more wear-resistant than those mineral mirrors. You can call it "sapphire glass" or "sapphire lens" is enough.
First of all, "sapphire", "crystal" belong to two words, said the two substances, if you have learned gem knowledge, you will know. Then you use two different words to indicate a substance, which was originally from the beginning of a mistake, then in the end you want to express what kind of material? Then a "glass", then another word appears again. Well, if you say "glass," I mean not matter, but function. Then come a "mirror", then what is it? So, either you say "sapphire glass", of course, the glass here refers to the structure. However, glass represents a cheap ingredient in building materials China. The "lens" is the earliest from the camera, the camera is a sophisticated instrument, but the word comes from this, enough to highlight its noble. Well, in this case, we are "taking high instead of low", calling it the "sapphire lens" is the best way to say.
Edited by Liang Chengmin: Liu, the watch has been used in the manufacturing process a large number of machines, the efficiency of a watch has been greatly improved, then why some luxury watches now the pricing trend is getting higher and higher it?
Liu Xingli: This is because of the existence of a large batch of marketing workers like you. There are many industries in which you describe the situation, including the cosmetics industry, the glasses industry, and even the daily necessities industry. The watch is relatively speaking, the research and development time used longer, the higher the cost of raw materials, because the sales process a little higher pricing. Of course, this involves "brand" issues, the brand effect is very strong, a well-known brand watches because of its brand effect, obviously more expensive than other watches to a higher part. So, you are in the process of selling, in fact, you can create some "concept." For example, there is no "business car" category among our car categories. However, due to some dealers for sale reasons, the deformation created the concept of "business car" and make the concept popular, so that some business people in the car will take into account whether the car is a "business car" , Which makes this commercial car particularly popular.
Editor Liang Chengmin: Liu, is said to be the most talented German professionals in the world, then why the Germans in the watch industry started early enough Switzerland is not famous?
Liu Xingli: In fact, this question asked very special, the Germans are indeed strong in mechanical engineering, the world is famous, but also the watch manufacturing relative to Switzerland earlier. However, Switzerland's only competitive advantage over Germany is that watchmaking in Switzerland has always been adhering to, so the watchmaking industry throughout the country has become a tradition. However, it is a pity that the Germans started early but did not form a relatively early clock and watch system, so Switzerland came from behind, sit tight watch industry leader so far.
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